Ariston Service Center

Here is the proper drain setup prevents backflow and flooding:

1. Place washer close to main drain or sink.

2. Secure hose at rear outlet, ensuring no gaps.

3. Form a high loop about 30–40 cm above floor using a hook.

4. Insert hose into standpipe or tailpiece—avoid pushing too deep.

5. Check hose path—no kinks, loops, or tight bends.

6. Run a drain test (spin cycle): confirm smooth, leak-free flow

There are several factors that can cause an Ariston washing machine door to remain locked, and the solution often depends on the specific situation. However, here are the most common methods to unlock the door when it's stuck due to water inside, power cuts, or child-lock activation:

• Wait for the cycle to complete or press the START/PAUSE button — some models unlock automatically during or after a cycle.

• Manually drain the water: Unplug the machine, open the service flap near the pump, and use the emergency drain hose to remove excess water.

• Use the emergency release tab: Usually located behind the front panel near the door lock (often a yellow or colored tab).

• Disable the child-lock: Press and hold the child-lock or padlock symbol buttons for 3–5 seconds.

• Reset the power: Unplug the machine for 5–10 minutes to allow the locking mechanism to discharge.

If none of these steps work, the issue may be a faulty door lock or internal electronics. In such cases, it's best to contact a professional technician.

A smooth laundry experience:

• Load properly: don’t exceed drum capacity.

• Dispense detergents: powder/liquid in main wash, softener in designated slot.

• Choose program: cotton, synthetics, wool, delicates, quick, eco.

• Adjust options: temperature, spin speed, pre-wash, etc.

• Start: closes the door, engages pump and water intake.

• Pause mid-cycle: press START/PAUSE to drain—door unlocks after a delay.

• Finish: once cycle ends, door unlocks; unload promptly.

• Clean regularly: run an empty 90 °C cycle with machine cleaner monthly.

Recommended factory settings:

• Fridge: around 3 °C

• Freezer: around –18 °C

These ensure optimal energy efficiency and food safety. Only adjust if ambient room temperature is extreme or storage load changes.

Common reasons include:

• Door ajar

• Temperature rise in compartments

• Defrost cycle ended

• Faulty touch controls

Try this:

• Confirm door is fully closed.

• Check temp: fridge ~3 °C / freezer ~–18 °C.

• Clean control panel and reset (unplug for a few minutes).

• If persistent, sensors or control board may be failing.

F15 indicates a virtual sensor fault between the wash & drain pumps:

1. Check for blockages in both pumps—remove debris.

2. Clean hoses and impeller area.

3. If unresolved, replace wash (circulation) pump.

4. Board faults are rare, but if pumps are replaced and issues continue—call in a technician.
   Actual user cases confirm that cleaning often resolves it, restoring sensor feedback

Error “5” (or F05) indicates the heating circuit has timed out—common causes:

• Broken heating element

• Faulty thermostat/temperature sensor

• Defective control board/relay

Fix approach: test element with a multimeter, inspect thermostat/sensor, and evaluate the board for relay issues.

F02 means water inlet failure:

• Ensure cold water supply is turned on and pressure is normal.

• Clean or replace the inlet hose and filter.

• Inspect the solenoid valve for continuity; replace if faulty.

• Clear or replace the impeller jug (inlet pump).

Logical troubleshooting process:

1. Note error codes or LED patterns.

2. Inspect common areas: drain filters, hoses, inlet components.

3. Listen: is the pump humming or silent?

4. Check electricity to components with a multimeter (inlet valve, heater, pumps).

5. Clean visible clogs or debris.

6. Swap suspect electrical parts—start with inexpensive fixes.

7. Use service manual flowcharts or call pros for complex diagnostics.

This model often throws an error or stops when:

• Circulation pump fails mid-cycle.

• There’s a powered sensor fault or overheating heater.

Inspect impeller and water pump function. If motor hums but no water flow, impeller is likely faulty. Temperature irregularities could stall cycles.

Yes if the element burns out:

• Heating elements are affordable and simple to replace.

• Replace at ~20–40 USD rather than buying a new oven.

• Ensure you have the right part number and allow it to cool fully.